Welcome to the Chinchilla Pages!!
Where would you like to go??
Is a
Chinchilla the Right Pet for Me?
Health
Care & Common Chinchilla Illnesses
Things
Every Chinchilla Owner Should Know
Things
You Should Have in Your Chinchilla First Aid Kit
Bringing
Home Your New Chinchilla
Introducing
and Caging More Than One Chinchilla
Caring
for Pregnant or Lactating Mothers
Printable
Care Sheets
Chinchilla History and Facts
Chinchillas are a
medium sized rodent originating from the
It is widely believed
the Chinchillas in the United States pet and fur trade today are all
descendents of an original 11 Chinchillas imported in to the US by M.F. Chapman
in 1923, the same year exportation of Chinchillas was halted completely by
South American authorities.
Chinchillas are
nocturnal and have very poor eyesight.
They rely mainly on their sense of smell, touch, and their keen hearing.
Their gestation period
is one of the longest in the rodent family and ranges from 111-125 days. Their young are born alive, fully furred,
eyes opened, and teeth already present.
Young kits are surprisingly active. In captive breeding programs they
are often observed climbing their cages as soon as 1 hour after birth. The average captive newborn Chinchilla kit
weighs between 40 and 60 grams with some reaching up to 80 grams. A litter generally consists of 1-4 kits with
2 being the norm. Mothers sometimes have
problems with litters of more than 2, especially those delivering their first
litters. Female Chinchillas can go back
in to heat immediately after delivering their kits and can become impregnated
again, in captive breeding programs we call this a breed back. Female Chinchillas reach sexual maturity
between 3 and 5 months but there have been cases of females getting pregnant
even sooner. They can be sexually viable
until their senior years although most are retired when production slows or
birthing complications and/or rejected kits become more frequent.
Adult Chinchillas are a
bit smaller than rabbits but a bit larger than squirrels and range in weight from
400 grams to 1200 grams with between 650 and 800 being the norm. When explaining them to people who’ve never
seen them I like to liken them to what a cross between a squirrel and a rabbit
would look like.
Chinchillas in
captivity have an average life span of 12-15 years. As rodents go they are a fairly hardy
species. The major types of illness seen
in captive bred Chinchillas are GI infections and upsets, upper respiratory
infections and pneumonia, intestinal parasites, malocclusion, bloat, and intestinal
impaction (this is usually seen in fur chewers)
Chinchillas are
strictly Herbivores so in captivity they rely on a diet of high quality
commercial pellets and fresh hay. Their
digestive system is much like that of a horse and many of the same GI afflictions
found in horses such as bloat is the same we see in Chinchillas.
Chinchilla’s teeth
should be orange not white. If a
Chinchilla presents with white teeth (even just partially white) it signals a
calcium deficiency and you should offer your Chinchilla an extra Calcium source
like a Cuttle Bone (found in the bird aisles of pet stores). Calcium deficiencies are often seen in
nursing mothers, pregnant females, or convalescing Chinchillas. Kits are born with white teeth and they turn
to orange usually by 6 weeks of age.
When a predator grabs a
Chinchilla they will often end up with a mouthful of fur. This is called a “fur slip” and is the
Chinchilla’s best line of defense. They
can detach large portions of fur at will when they are frightened. Alternatively if you were to grab and jerk on
a Chinchilla’s tail at any point other than the base; they can detach their
tail. If this happens the tail will not
grow back.
Chinchillas are widely
raised in the
For more information on
wild Chinchillas, their plight, their natural habitat, and interesting facts go
to:
Save the Wild
Chinchillas, Inc.
For more information on
the history of Chinchillas both wild and in the pet and fur trades you can go
to:
Empress
Chinchilla Breeder’s Cooperative
Mutation
Chinchilla Breeder’s Association
*Please be aware both MCBA and ECBC were
originally formed as organizations catering to pelt ranchers and that is still
a large portion of their focus today. By clicking their links you understand
you will be taken to a pro-pelt site*
One thing is certain whether you’re a pelt rancher, a hobby
breeder, or simply a pet owner, the inquisitive nature of the Chinchilla and
their distinct personality makes them a joy to share your life with.
"In the end we conserve only what we
love, we love only what we understand and we will understand only what we have
been taught." ~ Baba Dioum
Is a Chinchilla the Right Pet for Me?
Do you want a pet that will snuggle with you, love on you, give you kisses,
sit in your lap, and let your kids haul it around? If that's the case
then the answer to the above question is probably no! If you want a pet
that is clean, playful, free spirited, and strong willed then this is the pet
for you! Chinchillas are such amazing creatures. They are so much
fun to watch. They are very active. They love to jump, climb, and
perch. They love to run free. They are nocturnal, their nocturnal
lifestyle is very important to their physical well being. They require
moderate temperatures, 75 degrees being the absolute maximum with 70 or lower
being highly recommended. Many Chinchilla ranchers keep their barn
temperature at 60 degrees or lower. They
can not be left alone for long periods of time; if you go on vacation you must
have a pet sitter. They can be very grumpy if their schedule is altered
in the slightest and they do not forget when they are injured or abused, they
can harbor their emotional scars for life.
Chinchillas may be allowed to free roam but there are two very
important points to consider; 1. They can not be litter boxed trained, they
will poop anywhere and everywhere; 2. They will chew; they can chew walls,
furniture, electrical cords, toys, wood, anything and everything they can find
will be tasted. This is known as a "test bite" they will
taste to see if it is edible. This can be very dangerous for your
Chinchilla if they happen to get in to something toxic or chew an electrical
cord. They are also able to climb and jump very high and have been known
to fall and injure themselves.
Another consideration is their ability to squeeze in to tight spaces,
they can squeeze in to any small space and you may not be able to get them
out. Small children are not always good with Chinchillas, they have very
dainty bones, and they are so soft that children want to hug and cuddle them
but this has been known to cause severe injury and even death to
Chinchillas. Obviously for the same reasons you must exercise caution
when placing a Chinchilla in the same home as other animals. Chinchillas
have their own special temperament. Some Chinchillas may crave you being
around, they may sit in your lap on their own terms, they may chew on your
toes, and they may greet you at the door to the cage every time you come
near. Others however may regard you as a food source. They may
never allow you to touch them, or feed them treats from your hand. They
may bite you or "bark" at you when you come near and a female Chinchilla
will show aggression or fear by spraying you, they are remarkably accurate and
can spray surprisingly long distances.
It can be very frustrating to buy a Chinchilla and then find out they
are not what you expected. I suggest you research your Chinchilla before
buying. A good breeder or rancher will allow you to see a variety of what
they have available and they will allow you to touch them and see how you get
along. Keep in mind however that Chinchillas get stressed very easily so
the way they act in their familiar surroundings will not necessarily be the way
they act in your home in their new surroundings. Most will come around
eventually as long as you can be patient with them but not all will (for more
information on making the transition easier on you and your new Chinchilla
please see this section). Finally, Chinchillas are
social animals. They much prefer having a "cage mate". It
is easiest to place two already familiar cage mates together, or to purchase
two kits of the same sex and start them out as cage mates early (for more
information on introducing cage mates and caging Chinchillas together see this
section). In some instances they prefer to be alone and if
your Chinchilla is one of those that prefer to be alone they may spray urine,
bite the other Chinchilla's fur, or fight with them, causing severe injury and
even death. If you are content to have a pet that will come to you when
it wants to, relies completely on you for food and a clean habitat, and is
quite entertaining in the evening hours then this is the pet for you!!
A couple of other important points to consider, Chinchillas are quite pricey if
you buy them from a reputable breeder or ranch. They need a large cage
that can often be very bulky, chew toys, a sleeping box, perches, and a wheel
are heartily appreciated if not completely necessary. Also, a
Chinchilla's average life span is 10-15 years so they are a VERY long term
commitment, not one to be entered in to lightly.
Chinchilla Basics
A few basic necessities
when housing and caring for Chinchillas are:
A cage: Chinchillas require a large cage if they will be spending most of their
time in it. It should be deep and wide but not excessively tall unless
specific precautions are taken (see further down in this section for
information on using taller cages). While jumping and perching are vital
to a Chinchilla's health and well being, they have been known to injure
themselves missing a very high jump. A good rule of thumb is 2x2x2 per
Chinchilla. This is a bare minimum of width, depth, and a maximum for
height, you can cage Chinchillas in a cage taller than this but please make
sure the shelves are graduated so they aren’t jumping from the very top level
to the floor as they can break their legs very easily. Kits should never be allowed shelves more
than 6 inches off the cage floor. Also VERY important when choosing a
chinchilla cage, if there is a wire bottom it MUST have very, very small
wiring. Solid steel or sealed wooden, bottoms are the best choice you can
make. Chinchillas can get their tiny feet caught in the wires and break
their legs causing severe injury resulting in amputation or death. If you
are considering a kit then it is important that the side bars also be spaced no
wider than 1 inch. I have seen babies squeeze out of wires spaced smaller
than you can imagine! Chinchilla cage
wire should be galvanized after weld only or have a non-toxic coating. Even some non-toxic coatings can cause health
problems in Chinchillas especially those coated with a loose epoxy coating that
they can chew off so cages with wire that is galvanized after weld are the best
choice. When you first get a new cage
it’s a good idea to soak it in a tub full of a mixture with 50% Vinegar and 50%
water, this will neutralize any zinc remaining on the cage wires after
weld. Cages galvanized with zinc are
toxic to Chinchillas, zinc itself is toxic to Chinchillas, cages galvanized
after weld are generally not galvanized with zinc but it’s a good idea to
neutralize it just in case.
A Sleeping Box: A sleeping box is very important to your Chinchilla. They
need a place they can sleep and nest and feel safe and secure. They also
need the dark during the day. Make sure your sleeping box is made of wood
or metal and that any screws or nails holding it together are fully counter
sunk and not visible to your eye. If at
any time you do notice a nail or screw you must either counter sink the
nail/screw again or throw the house away and get a new one as your Chinchilla
will chew it and they could break their teeth on it. If wooden shelves become soiled you can
easily sand down the other surfaces and make it good as new keeping in mind the
need to watch for screws or nails. Many
sleeping boxes/houses are made with non-toxic wood glue or special glue
specifically used to build rodent houses. Plastic Igloos and other such
sleeping arrangements are not advised because they will chew it and plastic in
large quantities is not good for their digestion and can become lodged in their
digestive tract and cause an impaction.
A
Food: A good Pellet food is essential. We use Mazuri Chinchilla feed
although we are considering switching to Tradition. Rabbit or horse feeds are really not
recommended for Chinchillas as they are often lacking in some of the key
nutrients Chinchillas need and sometimes they have more fat or less fiber
content than Chinchillas really need or require. A Chinchilla food is much more preferable if
one is available to you.
Along with the pellets
Chinchillas need Alfalfa or Timothy Hay. You can buy it in bales, cubes,
or small portions. We use Alfalfa cubes at present, not my favorite choice,
but much better than the alternatives of no hay or moldy hay. I much
prefer Timothy Hay but we just don't have it available to us... Please
when choosing your hay; make sure it is dry and crisp and not damp or
moldy. Reach in to the center of the bail and pull out pieces from
various areas, a lot of times we have been able to get a bail that looks good
until we get to the inner layers. You can purchase hay online in small
quantities, and if you only have one Chinchilla that is a great way to go. If their food is Alfalfa based they should
really eat Timothy hay to balance it out but if you’re in an area like we are
sometimes that’s just not possible and in that case Alfalfa can be used or you
can go with Brome or Blue Grass. Be sure
to store your hay properly. Keep it up
off of the floor to keep mice and other foraging wildlife at bay. A cardboard box with holes cut in to the side
is a great hay storage container. Never
seal your hay in an airtight container, if moisture is present in the hay or
the container you could promote mold growth in the hay which could be deadly to
your Chinchilla.
Food dishes need to be
either metal, edible wood, a gravity feeder which hangs from the cage, or
ceramic, if you have a ceramic bowl it should be heavy enough it will not get
dumped over and never placed on a shelf. I prefer the gravity feeders
that hang from the cage because they don't get pooped in and dumped over as
easily, we use Terra Cotta herb pots or Chimneas for hay bins again making sure
they are not on a shelf and we anchor ours to the cage with wire. You must be sure to clean the pellets out
each evening and to not overfeed as they will most likely waste half of it
anyway. Never leave pellets in the cage
for more than one evening as they too can mold and go bad. Plastic bird feeding trays are not a
good idea for the same reason other plastics are not.
Treats: Chinchillas LOVE treats! It is
very important however to not overfeed treats as it is simply not good for
them. A good rule of thumb is one treat per night. I know 1 raisin
seems like nothing but believe me they enjoy it! Our Chinchillas love
Cheerios, just plain old Cheerios, not the sweetened kind or a piece of
Shredded Wheat, we don’t feed raisins or other similar sugary treats, we do
once in a while give small pieces of Papaya to help keep any hair blockages
away, this is especially important if your Chinchilla is a fur chewer.
NEVER give a sugary treat like a raisin or piece of Papaya to a Chinchilla
younger than 6 months old, this could cause diarrhea in young Chinchillas and
lead to Rectal Prolapse. Some other good
treats are: Rose Hips and Apple Chew Sticks, you can also purchase wonderful
oat supplements from many of the larger ranchers and some of the hobby
breeders; these make great treats although they are not treats you can feed
from your hand. We only give our Chins treats during weigh in or when we
need to bribe them to pose for a picture or submit to a hair ring check;
otherwise they get different woods and an oat supplement. Again remember
not to give them too many treats!!
Bedding: Some people prefer to not give their Chinchillas bedding. Ours
have Kiln Dried Pine Bedding. This is a personal choice but you must
consider a few things. First of all the Chinchilla will chew it so
whatever you purchase MUST not be treated with chemicals. Secondly they
will throw the litter if it is within reach. Third, Cedar is a BIG
NO! The chemicals in Cedar shavings when mixed with urine and feces can
be fatal and if not immediately fatal can cause severe lung damage or damage to
the eyes from the phenols put off by the Cedar. I prefer not to buy Pine
bedding from the feed store. Although it comes in much bigger bags it is
generally not as dried thus it produces more dust and can have a few other
goodies in it such as pieces of cardboard, plastic, or anything else that could
have gotten mixed in. The smaller the Pine Shavings the better it is as a
rule. Be sure to change your litter a minimum of once a week to keep your
Chinchilla looking and feeling their best, Chinchillas when properly cared for
should emit no odor from themselves or the bedding so if you notice an odor the
cage isn’t clean enough!!
Water: Chinchillas must have fresh water daily. A water bottle attached to
the outside of the cage is the only acceptable way in my opinion.
Chinchillas should not get wet unless it's an absolute emergency, it can be
fatal so a water dish in the cage is a bad idea. If you hang their water
bottle inside the cage they will chew it until it leaks and this can cause them
to get wet. Glass water bottles are
wonderful because they are easily thrown in to the dishwasher to be disinfected
and they can’t be chewed even by the most determined of Chinchillas. If you have problems with your Chinchillas
chewing through the water bottles when placed on the outside of the cage you
can slip a piece of sheet metal (galvanized after weld if they have any access
to it) between the water bottle and the cage side. Make sure there are no protruding sharp edges
your Chinchilla could injure themselves on.
A Wheel and Other Toys: A wheel is quite important to a happy Chinchilla,
especially one that is cage bound all of the time. If your Chinchilla is
allowed free run time, then this may be foregone if it is absolutely
necessary but Chinchillas are very active animals so a wheel is quite
preferred. Again, make sure the wheel is "Chinchilla Safe" in that it
has a solid running surface so they do not cause injury to themselves and that
it has no cross bars a Chinchilla could get a leg or tail caught in. Bucket wheels are the best choice just make
sure they are sturdy enough to hold the weight of the Chinchilla when full
grown. Other toys in the cage are a good idea as well. Wooden chew
toys that hang from the cage are perfect. There are some homemade ones
that work very well. Also, wooden hamster and gerbil chews are usually
safe. Anything that is made of edible, untreated wood is probably safe
but if you are in doubt you should check with your breeder, pet shop, or
Vet. Generally anything that is safe for
parrots is safe for Chinchillas. For a
complete list of Chinchilla safe woods and unsafe woods please see: ChinCare.com
A Trusted, Responsible
Pet Sitter: If you go on vacation you must make sure your Chinchilla has its
food, water, baths, free time, and treats, since you won’t be there to do so
you will need a trusted pet sitter. It’s
never ok to leave your Chinchilla home and unattended for more than about 24
hours. If a water bottle was to leak,
your furnace was to stop working, your air conditioner should stop working,
their food supply became contaminated, your Chinchilla should take ill, or
wildlife happened to wander in to your Chinchilla’s habitat the consequences
could be disastrous so you must always be prepared. It’s a great idea to
have a credit card number on file with your vet in case of emergencies. You can authorize the use of it when you are
going to be out of town should your pet sitter come across an emergency or even
work something out ahead of time with your vet so they know you will be gone
and they can treat your Chinchilla in your absence. It is very important to be prepared for every
eventuality, when you aren’t home. A
sticker for your window or door alerting emergency personnel you have
Chinchillas inside is a must, you can get them from most emergency agencies,
ASPCA Offices, Shelters, Humane Societies, and even in some pet stores. It’s also a good idea to make certain a
nearby neighbor knows you will be out of town and can keep an eye out for
anything odd or emergent going on at your house. Finally it never hurts to make a phone call
to your local rescue agencies informing them of the kind of pets living in your
home should an emergency arise. If you
don't do this you could come home to a very unhappy (or dead) Chinchilla and
they can be quite ornery when they are mad!!
Time: Chinchillas need play time and companionship every day if you want them
to be friendly and to trust you. I recommend no less than 30 minutes of
SUPERVISED free roam time in a "Chinchilla Proof" room per night,
(this is a good time to offer their bath).
You should never take a new Chinchilla out for free time until they are
completely comfortable with you. Chasing
a Chinchilla to place them back in their cage is not good for them and raises
stress levels which could lead to diarrhea, loss of appetite, lethargy, etc...
Not to mention Chinchillas do not forget such things and will continue to be
afraid of you.
Vet Care: This is of the utmost importance. You must be able to find a
vet that is skilled in Chinchilla care or willing to learn what is necessary to
care for them. While Chinchillas are a generally healthy species and with
the proper conditions may never need vet care, they can injure themselves by
cutting themselves on wires, breaking their legs, getting a cold, watery eyes,
etc... Even the cleanest of Chinchilla rooms does not assure you won’t end
up with a health problem in your Chinchilla so you must always be
prepared. Also a good vet is vital in
case your Chinchilla should ever succumb to Malocclusion which can be very
expensive and difficult to treat it also takes someone with a lot of knowledge
on the working of rodent teeth. As a minimum I recommend at least one
check up per year to ensure your Chinchilla stays as healthy as possible.
These are in my opinion the minimum requirements; of course feel free to spoil
your Chinchilla to your fullest ability!!
Cages
and Equipment
I prefer at least a
2x2x2 cage for my single Chins, most of ours are housed in pairs or trios and
their cage sizes are 3x3x2.
Some Cage Options:
A large bird cage: is
highly acceptable taking in to account a few things, first of all the cage
should not be too tall because your Chin can fall and injure themselves, and
secondly most bird cages have plastic bottom pans and Chins will chew the
plastic which in large amounts is not good for them. Also, you must take
the wire grid out of the bottom as the spaces in that wiring are the perfect
size for slipping Chinchilla feet and legs through and causing major injury. Taking that in to account the bird cage is
overall a decent option as long as you make the base modifications and consider
the height, if you have a tall cage you need to have tiered shelves so the
Chins can jump from shelf to shelf and can’t injure themselves by falling or
jumping off of the top shelf. The wires are spaced perfectly to avoid
kits escaping, and you can buy them in almost any size and shape. The
wires are easy to attach shelves and perches to as an added bonus. The
only draw back with these that we can find is the fact that they spend most of
their time in the bottom of the cage in their droppings. Keep in mind
when thinking about a bird cage that a sleeping box is a must and it will most
likely need to go on the floor of the cage so make sure the floor space is ample.
Wire bottomed cages: There is a large amount of debate surrounding wire
bottomed cages, there are many good points with these cages and we have two of
them. You MUST make sure the wire on the bottom is not wide enough
to slip a leg or foot through and cause injury and you must always keep a very
close eye on any Chinchillas in a wire bottomed cage of any kind. The
proper sized wire can be quite costly to obtain. Also make sure there are
no sharp interior edges to the cages and the wires are spaced so as not to
allow kit escape. A good way to check for jagged edges is to run your
palm along all of the surfaces of the cage.
If anything protrudes and pokes you it will have to be sanded down. A Dremel tool makes a wonderful metal
sander. The plus to these cages is the
ability to place a pan under the cage with bedding in it. This way they
are not playing, sleeping, or sitting, in their droppings, and they are unable
to throw litter, hay, and food as easily. It also makes them super easy
to clean. I make sure my wire cages have at least 1 solid surface and in
most cases more, whether it be a perch, a shelf, or the sleeping box so they
can get off of the wire and give their feet a rest, if you don’t do this they
can build up large calluses on their foot pads and they can become dry and
cracked! No one wants to spend 24/7 on
that wiring so please do make certain they have ways to get off of it.
Wire Cages with Solid Bottoms: These are the alternative to wire bottomed
cages. Again the draw back is the fact they spend a lot of time on the
cage floor in their droppings, water bottle leakage, and urine. Also they
can and will throw litter, food, etc... Out of the cage. They are not as
easy to clean because you must remove the bottom and thus the Chins to clean them
out which can be difficult if you have quarantined Chins, you will be unable to
change all of the cages at once in a timely fashion. I actually like the solid bottomed cages that
have the pan that pulls out. This way
you don’t necessarily have to remove the Chinchillas unless they are small kits
and they are very easy to clean. Cage cleaning time isn't a problem for
us as we figure on spending a great deal of time on cage cleaning and our Chins
get free run each night anyhow, but it is a consideration for some owners.
Super Pet Chinchilla Homes: The 3 level Chinchilla home is very nice. We
have 3 of them. We prefer the other cage options for a couple of reasons,
first of all, the plastic shelves get chewed, the plastic cage clips get
chewed, and kits can slip through the external bars, they are not kit safe in
any way shape or form. Secondly, there is NOT enough space in them for 2
Chins as they suggest, this is just my opinion but I don't see any way 2 Chins
could live happily in there. Thirdly, they hate the ramps! If you
purchase one of these cages remove the ramps because Chins like to jump and the
ramps just hinder that and take up space. If you do remove the ramps you
should order a couple of extra shelves and graduate them, so your Chin can’t
fall and injure themselves, especially if you have a young kit. We have housed kits as young as 10 weeks in
these cages and not had them escape but any kit younger than that could
definitely do so. Lastly, it is hard if
not impossible to fit a sleeping box or wheel in the cage. All in all for
a beginner cage for 1 Chin these are fine cages but long term I prefer wire
cages. Also, they are a good value because they come with a bathing house
(which are very nice) that can be attached and unattached easily, a list of
replacement parts, their prices and ordering information, a wooden
"leaping ledge" and the two plastic shelves. The dust bath house attachment that clips to
the cage will be among the first things to get chewed off (right after the cage
clips) so make certain you have an extra on hand. If they chew the part of the dust bath
attachment that actually clips to the cage it makes a perfect escape
hatch.
Finally many people are
now going to Melamine cages. Melamine
press board is toxic to Chinchillas so it is imperative you build your cages
with this in mind. They won’t be able to
chew the walls of the cage but they will be able to chew any shelves. Because of this you must put a metal runner
along the edge of each shelf to make the Melamine inaccessible. We don’t have any experience with these
personally but we know several people who have built them and just love them
and we are planning to build a couple when we find the supplies. In our town we have no large hardware or home
improvement stores but it is my understanding you can find the necessary
supplies at any Home Depot, Lowes, or other large home improvement store so if
you have access to the supplies and you build one I would love to know how you
like it!! You can find complete instructions
on building these cages at: Spoiled Chins.
The cage plans are $5 because people were stealing these very detailed
plans, building these wonderful cages and then selling them for profit. The original designers went to great pains to
design a very nice blueprint and step by step instructions to building these
cages and share them with other breeders and Chinchilla owners so it was very
discouraging when people began to profit from their hard work. $5 is a bargain for these plans as they are
so very detailed and I highly recommend them!!
These are just the cages we have had experience with. I know there are
several others people have used or do use, so please feel free to try others
and let me know if you find one that works better than any of these!!
Sleeping Boxes, Water Bottles, Food crocks or bins, and hay bins or feeders are
necessary accessories and a wheel is a good idea as well. More info on
these accessories is available in this section.
Feed & Dust Requirements
Chinchillas have very
specific dietary needs. They require an adequate
balance of roughage and fiber to keep their GI tract in top condition. GI Infections and complications are a major
killer of captive Chinchillas and because of this their diet must be given the
maximum care and concern.
A high quality staple
food should be offered fresh each day.
Kits need no more than 2 tablespoons a day. They should be monitored very carefully as
they can overeat and this can cause diarrhea or constipation that can lead to
Rectal Prolapse (for more information on feeding weanlings see this section). Adult Chinchillas need about 1/2 to 1/3 of a
cup of pellet food a day but our Chins are free fed and their food intakes as
well as their droppings are closely monitored.
We waste a bit more food this way as we dump out pelleted food each
evening but this eliminates worry if we are a bit late getting home or getting
the Chinchillas fed and it allows them a bit more if they need it, they also
have such a great time scooping half of the food out of the feeder how could we
deny them that? J
Some of the best types
of staple pellet foods are Tradition, Mazuri, and Rancher’s Choice.
You can supplement your
Chinchillas with an Oat Supplement given daily as a treat or as an additive to
food. Many ranchers and hobby breeders
sell or mix up their own special blend of supplement they’ve designed to meet
their Chinchillas’ specific needs.
Hay is really of utmost
importance. Some people do not feed
their Chinchillas hay but we feel it is a very important part of their diet and
is necessary to achieve that perfect balance in their sensitive GI tract. If you feed an Alfalfa based staple food such
as Mazuri then ideally you should supply Timothy hay to balance that out. If that is not possible you can feed Alfalfa
and even Blue Grass or Brome Hay. Be
sure to check your hay carefully, check in to the middle of the bail if you
feed loose hay and make certain there is no moisture. Compressed hay cubes can be a great
alternative in areas where good dry hay is hard to get. It will appear as though your Chinchilla is
not eating as much hay but keep in mind these cubes are highly compressed so
they actually eat the same amount in different ways. Cubes are also preferred by some because
there is less mess along with them. I
prefer loose hay if it’s available but being in our climate I have to take what
I can get.
Some breeders and
ranchers add a bit of Animax or Calf Manna to their pellets. These are high calorie, high vitamin, high
calcium supplements originally designed to be added to cattle feed, they are
believed to give Chinchillas an extra boost.
There have been some reports of Animax or Calf Manna being linked to
Kidney Stones, and other complications of Calcium overdoses in Chinchillas and
especially in kits. It has also been
rumored to possibly promote Rectal Prolapse in kits. To my knowledge there are no real studies
currently available to either prove or disprove these suspicions but just to be
safe we do not add them and instead go with a supplement specifically
formulated for Chinchillas and available at: Ryerson
Chinchillas
Chinchilla require dust
baths to keep their fur soft and clean.
It could be very dangerous for a Chinchilla to get wet considering how
dense their fur is so instead in their native environment they bathe themselves
in volcanic ash. In captivity we
duplicate this process with commercial dust bath mixes consisting largely of
ground pumice or similar ground materials.
The best dusts on the
market we’ve found are Blue Sparkle or Blue Cloud. We’ve found these to be very superior to
those brands found in pet stores and we definitely prefer them over “bath
sands” which are a lot thicker and don’t seem to do as good a job keeping the
Chins coats at their finest. Dust baths
should be offered at minimum every 3 days.
When preparing for show many ranchers and breeders will allow their
Chinchillas to dust themselves daily.
Some people believe offering dust baths to a female Chinchilla in heat
or one that has just delivered kits and has not “closed” back up promotes
bacterial growth and Urinary Tract Infections.
To be safe you should check your females to make sure they are closed
completely before offering dust baths.
Pregnant females should not be offered dust baths for at least 10 days
post delivery. After losing a female to
a Urinary Tract Infection post delivery, we take no chances and ours are not
allowed their baths for 14 days post delivery and even then we check to make
sure she is fully closed up. We didn’t allow this female a bath and I think
that is important to note as we have no real basis to gauge this but it is a
widely supported belief in breeding circles and that’s good enough for us. It will not hurt a female to go without a
dust bath. She may appear a bit greasy
and she may have more of an odor than normal but we have adopted the rule
“better safe than sorry” when it comes to this practice.
Health Care & Common Illnesses
*Please note before reading this section
we are NOT veterinarians. The
information contained in this section is simply a guideline based on our
experiences and the experiences others have shared with us. If you are in doubt see your vet!!! Cuddly Critters Exotics accepts no
responsibility should anything happen to your pet due to lack of immediate
veterinary care when necessary*