Hedgehogs
Welcome
to the Hedgehog Pages! Where would you
like to go?
Is a
Hedgehog the Right Pet for Me?
Health
Care & Common Hedgehog Illnesses
Things
Every Hedgehog Owner Should Know
Bringing Home
Your New Hedgehog
Caring for and
Weaning Hoglets
Printable
Care Sheets
What is a Hedgehog?
Hedgehogs are an
insectivorous animal found in many areas throughout the world. There are several species of hedgehog and they
are native to most regions of the world.
They have been successfully introduced to some habitats they weren’t
originally native to. In some areas of
the world they are seen as a pest, in others they are seen as a great insect
repellant, and in some they are not given much consideration at all. In most countries the native species are now
protected from exportation. In the past
year or so the US pet market has begun exporting some captive bred hedgehogs to
countries like Europe, and Japan but these are captive bred species not
wild. Original
Hedgehog species all
differ in small degrees, some by size, some by toe number, some by coloring,
etc… The hedgehogs found commonly in the
In the wild hedgehogs are most vulnerable when
they are awakening from hibernation.
Many do not survive this, whether they fall victim to predators or illness. It is not fully understood why hedgehogs
hibernate. In some regions such as the
As mentioned above
hedgehogs are insectivores. In their native environments their diet
consists mostly of insects although it has been discovered they will eat most
anything, small animals, snakes, bird eggs, fruits, berries, vegetables, etc...
they have adapted like many other species to the loss
of their natural habitat to human development. They are a burrowing
animal and largely nocturnal though people have observed several in captivity
that stray from their nocturnal urges. In their native environment they
sleep during the day and forage for insects at night but they are actually
classified as diurnal meaning they are awake some during the day and some
during the night. Their snout is elongated for searching out insects in
the foliage and dirt. Their teeth are
sharp and the top incisors are quite elongated. They tend to overlap or
cross with the bottom, it is believed this is how they trap prey that is larger
than them or break through bones of small animals or shelled insects and
maintain their grip.
Hedgehogs are a very
curious, even tempered animal. They are
believed to be mostly solitary creatures and we certainly see that preference
in captive bred hedgehogs. Female hedgehogs
are induced ovulators meaning they ovulate when they
are in the presence of a male hedgehog only.
They do not have a “cycle” so to speak.
Some people believe this is no the case and that they actually do have a
silent cycle but many breeders and owners believe they are truly induced ovulators only. In
the wild they tend to ignore other hedgehogs unless they happen upon a member
of the opposite sex and they will mate and then go their separate ways leaving
the mother to care for her offspring.
Hedgehog litters can be as small as 1 or as big as 10. The gestation period of a hedgehog is 35
days.
Hedgehogs date back to
prehistoric times and are believed to be one of the oldest species of animal
still roaming the earth.
Is a Hedgehog the Right Pet for
Me?
There are several points to consider when deciding if a hedgehog is
the right pet for you.
You will get poked.
If you are wondering whether or not you will get poked if you pick a
hedgehog to join your family, rest assured at some point you will get
poked. Even hedgehogs with the best
temperament will eventually poke their owners.
We can’t expect them to be in a good mood and be agreeable all of the
time. Should your hedgehog poke you and
discover you are afraid of him he will use that to his advantage and when he
doesn’t want to be handled he will simply ball up or ram you so you must not let
them see that you are afraid of them.
They MUST see a vet regularly. I can not stress this enough. You will
see in the common illnesses page that Hedgehogs can succumb quickly and without
warning to a number of things ranging from a cold to Cancer to WHS. It is
so very important to detect a problem early, it could
mean the difference between life and death. So you need to make sure
there is a vet in your area who is experienced in Hedgehogs or willing to learn
to care for them, and that YOU take them at least once a year. I take
mine every 6 months at the minimum. A
yearly well hedgie check up may include a fecal
testing, skin scraping, dental examination, X-Rays, and a close examination and
palpitation of all areas of your hedgehog’s body. Generally these are performed under sedation
since even the sweetest hedgies usually hate to have their teeth checked.
While hedgehogs are a very clean animal
and require a minimum amount of routine grooming. They may require regular nail trimmings to
prevent the nails overgrowing in to the foot pad, bathing to remove feces from
their feet or quills, treatment for dry skin or mites, and regular cage
cleanings and sanitizing.
Hedgehogs require a specific diet and
often the food best fitted to their dietary requirements is costly. They also require a large amount of
stimulation and out of cage exercise/play time to remain healthy and
happy. If you are not able to dedicate
several hours a day to playing with your hedgehog and making certain they are
stimulated and happy then they are not the right pet for you.
Hedgehogs have very specific temperature
requirements. They can attempt to
hibernate at temperatures less than 70 degrees and sustained low temperatures
are a sudden death sentence.
Hedgehogs are illegal in AZ, CA, ME, PA,
GA, HI, and VT. They are also illegal in
some cities, counties, or townships and some legal areas require special
permits. Before choosing a hedgehog please call your local game and fish department
or animal control to ensure their legality in your area. Owning a hedgehog in an illegal area puts you
at risk of incurring fines and can put your hedgehog’s life in danger so please
take this seriously.
Should you plan to be out of town you
will need to have someone check on your hedgehog at least once daily. Hedgehogs can
spill or damage water bottles, climb out of cages, or dump their food while
you’re away so you should never leave them alone for more than an
overnight.
Hedgehogs have a fairly short life span
of 2-4 years. We are seeing some rise in
this number in recent years but it is still relatively short. As they age they can be susceptible to
tumors, dental problems, reproductive problems, and a variety of other
illnesses. These can be expensive to
treat and will require prompt veterinary attention if they are to survive
them.
Hedgehogs are a friendly animal if they
are purchased from a respected breeder but some just don’t care to be held,
snuggled, cuddled, and hauled around.
Each hedgehog has their own unique personality and you will have to
learn to work around your hedgie’s personality and
not expect them to conform to you.
If these things listed above didn’t scare you off, you are well on
your way to becoming a hedgehog caretaker!!
Hedgehog Basics
Hedgehogs are amazing animals and fairly easy to care for. While that’s the case there are a few basic requirements
that should never be over looked.
A Cage or other suitable enclosure:
Some hedgie caretakers are happy
to let their hedgies free roam in a room of their house. This is acceptable providing your hedgie’s safety has been considered to the fullest
extent. If you choose to allow your hedgie to be a free roaming pet you will need to make sure
all electrical cords are well out of reach.
You will need to make sure the room is free of anything the hedgie could ingest and possibly choke on. When a hedgie sees
something they think might be edible or a toy they can easily play with it or
try to eat it and end up choking. This
means the room should be checked daily to make sure no one’s lost a button,
snap, zipper, etc… and also the floor should be kept completely cleared of
hairs or threads your hedgie could possibly get
wrapped around his leg. Also important
to keep in mind is that hedgies LOVE to eat paper and tear up paper. You will need to make sure all magazine
wracks and shelves housing books, newspapers, magazines, etc… are out of
reach. Not only is it quite the mess
should they get in to paper but in large amounts in can cause intestinal
blockages and make them ill. Not to
mention some of the dyes used in ink are not good for them to ingest. You’ll need to make certain your hedgie can not get out of the room and wander in to other
areas in the house that are not “hedgie proofed” and
that other animals can not get in to the room and possibly injure your hedgehog
(not to mention get poked themselves).
Finally you’ll have to always be mindful of your hedgie’s
position in the room. They are easily
stepped on or squished and they can easily get shut up in to the foot rest of
recliners. Any of those things could be
very harmful and even fatal. Aside from
that you will have to make certain your hedgie can
reach his food, water, and litter box at all times and always keep in mind some
hedgehogs do not want to be potty trained and sometimes potty training them
fully is really difficult.
If you choose to cage your hedgehog you will want to make
sure the cage is set up ahead of time and fully stocked with hedgie necessities.
For further information on cage choices please see our: Cage Section.
A food bowl and water bottle or bowl:
Your hedgehog will need a food dish. You will want a fairly shallow dish made of a
sturdy or heavy material such as ceramic.
Corning Ware leftover dishes make wonderful hedgie
food dishes because they’re shallow and heavy enough it’s difficult to tip them
over. They’re also easy to clean. A small plastic cat dish is
also acceptable but remember hedgehogs will move things around their
cage in the evening and often lighter plastic dishes will get tipped over. You may need a couple of these if you plan to
feed your hedgehog fresh foods. Fresh
food dishes should be washed out each day and those containing dry kibble
should be washed out as needed (often hedgies will sit in their dish to eat and
will soil the food) or at least every other day. We dump out all food and wash the dishes
daily whether it’s dry kibble or fresh foods.
A water source will also be necessary. Many breeders use water bottles so chances
are your hedgehog is going to be partial to a bottle over a bowl or dish. This is something you should always ask of
the breeder before bringing your hedgehog home.
Once they are used to one or the other it’s sometimes difficult for them
to switch. If you use a water bowl or
dish it will need to be dumped and re-filled several times a day and you will
need to make certain it’s too heavy to dump over. Hedgehogs will soil the dish with bedding,
food, poop, etc… so you must maintain sanitary water conditions. Water bottles should be dumped, washed, and
re-filled at least every other day. If
your new hedgehog is used to a water bottle and you would like to switch to a
bowl (or vice versa), try offering both for several days. Your hedgehog should get the hang of the new
choice on his own but you should never just switch them
without giving them some time to adjust and learn to drink from the new
source. Once you are certain he is using
the dispenser of your choice then and only then can you remove the other. Hedgehogs can dehydrate rapidly so please
make sure they always have fresh water.
Bedding/Liner & Sleeping Box/Bag:
Your hedgehog will need some type of bedding or liner. They shouldn’t be left on the cage surface
whether it is glass, wood, or plastic without some kind of bedding or
liner. As with all small animals Cedar
bedding is absolutely not to be used.
Hedgehogs have very sensitive respiratory tracts and the Phenols in
Cedar can damage the lungs irreparably.
Recycled beddings such as Care Fresh, Yesterday’s News, etc… can be used
but because hedgehogs love paper some find their hedgehog eating large amounts
of this type of bedding. If you notice
your hedgehog has developed a taste for it you will have to choose a different bedding.
Kiln dried pine or
Some people choose to use liners in their cages made of
fleece, vellux, or corduroy. A Vellux blanket
cut in to squares makes a good liner choice because it doesn’t fray. If however your hedgehog is a digger they can
dig in to the vellux and get their nails caught in
the threads at the center of the vellux, should this
occur you will have to choose a different kind of liner. If you have the ability to sew a fleece liner
works just fine. You should make it
double layered and sew the seams in to the center avoiding any exposed loose
threads your hedgie could get wrapped around their
tiny feet. Sherry Songhurst
at Pins & Needles in
If you choose to use a liner you will have to litter box
train your hedgehog to keep your liners clean.
A corner litter pan like those used for ferrets
works well for this. Another option is a
shallow pan under the wheel, hedgies poop when they wheel and this seems to be
a good way to potty train. Hedgehog
potty training is un-predictable at best.
Hedgehogs are creatures of habit and prefer cleanliness, they choose a
corner and they use that corner as a toilet.
If you wish to potty train your hedgehog, your best bet is to let them
choose the corner and then place their litter box in that corner. Litter boxes can be filled with regular cat
litter (not the clumping kinds, they have chemicals in them that are toxic to
hedgehogs), pine or aspen bedding or pellets, or washed sand. If you choose washed sand your hedgehog may
play in the sand so you will need to be prepared for that. If your hedgehog goes potty outside of the
litter box, quickly pick the feces up with a tissue and place it in the litter
box (sans tissue of course). Hopefully
your hedgehog will then find it there and learn to use the litter box for
toileting. When your hedgehog uses the
litter box it’s a good idea to reward them with their favorite treat, a
mealworm, silkworm, yogurt, etc… This
further encourages the use of the litter box.
This can be a painstaking process and sometimes it can seem
hopeless. Some hedgehogs just don’t get
the hang of it. Consistency is the key,
remember to always place poop you find outside the litter box back in to the
litter box and reward your hedgehog for using the litter box. Eventually he should get the hang of it.
Your
hedgehog will need a sleeping box or bag.
In the wild they will build burrows, sleep under rocks, in
the burrows other animals have left behind, under boxes, and
even in rubbish piles during the day.
You
will need a sleeping box or hedgie bag that allows them room to turn around and get
situated but also feels snug enough and secure enough to allow them to sleep
without fear of predators and distractions.
A hedgie bag from Pins & Needles
or The
Hedgie Den is a wonderful choice. It allows them to snuggle up and feel secure
and keeps them warm in colder climates.
A small animal nest box or roll is also a good choice. If you use a nest roll you will most likely
have to replace it a few times if it gets soiled or starts to fall apart. As with the liners I suggest if you’re using
a hedgie bag you purchase more than one so you always
have an extra on wash day. No matter
what you use you might also offer your hedgie some
small fleece “blankies” or vellux
“blankies” they can drag around and/or snuggle up in
on cold evenings or during the day.
Hedgies love to snuggle with blankies. J
A Wheel and Toys:
Hedgehogs love to wheel!
Wheels are an important part of a hedgehog’s life. They allow them to get the right amount of
exercise and keep them looking and feeling their best. Your wheel should be of sturdy construction
(some adult hedgehogs can get quite robust) and should have a solid bottom. No kind of wire bottomed wheel is appropriate
for a hedgehog, it’s very easy for them to catch a nail or toe in the
grids. You should also be leery of cross
bars that can trap and possibly kill your hedgehog. A bucket wheel is a wonderful choice, cheap
to construct, quiet, and sturdy. You can
find instructions on making a bucket wheel at: Hedgies.Com.
Super Pet also makes a wheel that’s acceptable but if your hedgehog
becomes too heavy for it the wheel could tip over.
Hedgehogs love toys!
Toys keep them occupied, stimulated, and feeling their best.
Toiled paper roll tubes are a wonderful choice for use with
hedgehogs. They LOVE to stick their head
in one end and run around with the tube on their head. This is what we affectionately call
“tubing”. They may appear stuck but
assuming you’re using a standard toilet paper tube they aren’t stuck and if you
take it off of them chances are they will go right back to it. J
Some will even use their tube as a scoop to pick up other toys.
Beanie Babies like you find in McDonalds Happy Meals are
also a favorite. Many hedgehogs will
treat their Beanie Baby like a pal, grooming it, taking it to the food bowl,
sleeping with it, etc… Make sure if you
use a beanie baby or other small stuffed animal that the eyes and nose are not
the small plastic balls or your hedgehog could chew it off and choke on
it. The sewn in eyes and nose are the
best choice.
Matchbox Cars are also a favorite of hedgehogs. They love to push them around, and drag them
around. Make certain they have no
detachable pieces like mirrors, doors, hoods, etc… that could come off and
possibly choke your hedgehog.
Cat toys also make good hedgie
play things. Small plastic balls with
bells in them, soft balls they can haul around, etc… Make sure there are no broken pieces that
could pinch or choke your hedgehog and don’t use toys with catnip in them that
your hedgehog could tear up to get to the catnip. We aren’t really sure if catnip is hedgie safe but we assume better safe than sorry. J
A critter ball is another favorite of hedgehogs, especially
those hedgies who don’t have a wheel or get a lot of run time outside of their
cage. A critter ball can be a wonderful
way to allow that exercise. Keep in mind
hedgehogs poop when they run so chances are you will be cleaning the ball out
frequently. J
An alternate heat source is a must. Hedgehogs MUST be kept in a warm environment
no cooler than 70 degrees year round. In
the Winter if you can’t control the room temperature
you can place a human heating pad (you can even purchase one with a timer)
under half of the cage so your hedgehog can move close to it if he needs
to. It’s also a good idea to have a hot
water bottle, or disposable hand warmers or heat packs handy should you lose
power or should your furnace go out.
It’s also a good idea to carry such things when traveling with your
hedgehog.
Should you cut a nail too short and clip the quick don’t
panic. It can bleed profusely but it’s
not the end of the world. You should
always have a styptic pencil or some quik stop handy
just in case to stop bleeding. Hedgie quick’s bleed so much some vets use them to get
blood samples on hedgies since they have such tiny veins.
If you need to cut your hedgie’s
nails and it’s not bath time, try letting them out on the counter to run, as
they’re running away from you, gently grab a foot and clip those nails. You may only get one foot at a time and it
may take you several days to get through it but you’ll get there. Most hedgies hate nail clippings the first
couple of times but they learn fairly quickly to not be afraid of them. Playing with your hedgehog’s feet a lot
during snuggle time is a good way to get them used to people touching their
feet.
If all else fails you may have to take your hedgie to the vet and let them clip the nails under
sedation. It’s much less stressful (not
to mention cheaper) to get the hang of clipping them yourself though.
Some hedgehogs will never need their nails clipped, some will need them clipped regularly. If nails are allowed to grow too long they
can actually curve and grow in to the foot pads making it very painful and
requiring a surgical removal so please check your hedgehog’s nails periodically
to ensure they are not becoming overgrown.
A flag stone or rock under the food dish or in the center
of a wading pool (or your hedgehog’s free roam area) is a good way to keep
nails naturally worn down. If they have
to climb the rock or walk around it to get to their favorite treats or food
dish it can help to wear those nails down.
A Trusted, Responsible Pet Sitter: If you go on vacation
you must make sure your Hedgehog has its food, water, free time, and treats,
since you won’t be there to do so you will need a trusted pet sitter. It’s never ok to leave your Hedgehog home and
unattended for more than about 24 hours.
If a water bottle was to leak, your furnace was to stop working, your
air conditioner should stop working, their food supply became contaminated,
your Hedgehog should take ill, or wildlife happened to wander in to your
Hedgehog’s habitat the consequences could be disastrous so you must always be
prepared. It’s a great idea to have a credit card number on file with
your vet in case of emergencies. You can
authorize the use of it when you are going to be out of town should your pet
sitter come across an emergency or even work something out ahead of time with
your vet so they know you will be gone and they can treat your Hedgehog in your
absence. It is very important to be
prepared for every eventuality, when you aren’t home. A sticker for your window or door alerting
emergency personnel you have Hedgehogs inside is a must, you can get them from
most emergency agencies, ASPCA Offices, Shelters, Humane Societies, and even in
some pet stores. It’s also a good idea
to make certain a nearby neighbor knows you will be out of town and can keep an
eye out for anything odd or emergent going on at your house. Finally it never hurts to make a phone call
to your local rescue agencies informing them of the kind of pets living in your
home should an emergency arise. If you
don't do this you could come home to a very unhappy (or dead) Hedgehog and they
can be quite ornery when they are mad!!
Time: Hedgehogs need play time and companionship every day
if you want them to be friendly and to trust you. I recommend no less than
30 minutes of SUPERVISED free roam time in a "Hedgehog Proof" room or
in an enclosure like a child’s wading pool per night. The more time you spend with your hedgehog
the better the bond and the better the chance your hedgehog will be friendly
and not huffy. I also suggest holding
your hedgehog on your lap while watching TV, chatting online, answering
e-mails, reading a book, etc… You really
can’t spend too much time with your hedgehog!!
Vet Care: This is of the utmost importance. You must
be able to find a vet that is skilled in Hedgehog care or willing to learn what
is necessary to care for them. Hedgehogs can injure themselves by cutting
themselves on toys or their cage, breaking their legs, getting a cold, watery
eyes, etc... Even the cleanest of Hedgehog rooms does not assure you
won’t end up with a health problem in your Hedgehog so you must always be
prepared. Aside from that hedgehogs are
prone to a number of tumors, dental problems, colds, upper respiratory
infections, food allergies, etc…
Murphy’s Law assures you will need vet care on an emergency basis at
least once in your hedgehog’s lifetime, you need to be sure you have a vet
who’s available on an emergency basis or who has an emergency clinic to back
them up. It’s also a good idea to have
your vet’s home number or the number of a hedgehog knowledgeable colleague
should your vet be unavailable in an emergency, especially if the emergency
clinic isn’t hedgehog savvy. As a
minimum I recommend at least one FULL check up per year to ensure your Hedgehog
stays as healthy as possible. Some
things we have checked, fecals (to check for blood in
the stool, parasites, etc…), skin scraping (to check for Mites), dental workup,
blood work (to check for elevated blood cell counts signaling infection), a
full physical including firm palpation of your entire hedgehog to check for
lumps. Often this examination will be
performed while your hedgehog is sedated allowing a full work up without danger
of a bite or quill poking, and to keep your hedgehog still during the exams.
Cages and Equipment
Should you choose to use a cage it is important to always make sure
they have ONLY solid bottoms. Wire or
grid bottomed cages are NEVER ok to use with hedgehogs. Their legs are very tiny and very fragile and
there is simply not a safe grid out there.
There are a variety of cage choices out there for hedgehogs that are
both safe and appropriate. A common
question I am asked is if hedgehogs need levels and like to climb. Some hedgehogs much appreciate ramps and some
do not. If you have a cage with a ramp
that’s more than about 6 inches high or if your cage has multiple ramps you
will need to build a guard on to the outer edges of the ramp (and the levels) and ensure your
hedgehog can not fall off. A solid piece
of plastic, plexi glass, etc… attached to the ramp
sides and the edges of the levels reaching to the top of the next level or ramp is the best
choice. A rail would not be a really
good choice unless you can be absolutely certain your hedgehog can not slip
through and fall out or climb over the top.
Remember hedgehogs are VERY crafty and will try to find a way to get
around any obstacle. Super Pet makes
some very nice cages for rats and other smaller animals that are wonderful for hedgehogs, they have a ramp leading to one level. Some are even so large they have two ramps
and two ledges for each end of the cage.
If you choose these cages that’s absolutely
fine but do keep in mind the levels need to be a safe distance off the cage
floor, never place them higher than about half way up the side of the
cage. The Super Pet cages made for
Hedgehogs and Ferrets would not be appropriate unless the ramps and ledges were
modified and you were absolutely certain your hedgehog could not fall off of
them or worse climb over the divider you build and fall even further. Aside from making sure levels and ramps are
safe you also need to consider the bar spacing.
Hedgehogs are particularly crafty and hoglets
can be quite small. Adult hedgehogs vary
in size greatly so you will absolutely need to be certain the bar spacing is
not so wide as to enable escape an inch between bars is about the right spacing. If your hedgehog can get so much as his head
out he could easily get stuck and suffocate himself
trying to get back in. If he did manage
to get fully out of the cage and it was placed on a table or stand of some kind
he could fall to the floor and cause injury so again that’s something to
consider. If hedgehogs fall from any
height they can suffer broken limbs and spinal trauma both of which can lead to
a really long recovery, permanent handicaps, and sometimes even death. When choosing a cage you will also need to
consider the flooring options. Aside
from wire not being acceptable, some flooring options are better than
others. A plastic pan bottom is the best
choice, they’re light and easy to maneuver, and clean and they are easily
disinfected. Wood is much more difficult
(if not impossible) to disinfect so if you’re thinking of building your own
cages and you use wood you will need to make certain it is covered or sealed
with something that can be washed and disinfected like vinyl flooring (linoleum)
or a sealant of some kind making it water proof and safe. Melamine is often a good choice for wood type
flooring as it can be sprayed down and wiped clean and as long as the edges are
not exposed it will hold up well. If you
use a wooden floor of any kind with any wood exposed chances are good you will
eventually have to either replace it completely or sand it down and start over
at some point. Hedgehogs are not rodents
and do not chew so you should not have to worry about the ingestion of the wood,
BUT some woods and particle boards have a sweet scent and taste so you will
have to watch closely and make certain your hedgehog is not eating the
wood. Many manufactured woods such as
particle board have toxic substances in them.
Should you choose to make a homemade cage that is perfectly
fine providing you do not use a sharp wire like chicken wire. Keep in mind you will need to be able to
clean it and often cages made of wood or wire are more
difficult to clean.
Aquariums should they be used must be a minimum of 20
gallons. Again the downfall with them is
they are difficult to move and clean.
Aquariums are not the best choice out there because they lack the proper
ventilation and space.
Rubbermaid or Sterilite Bins make
wonderful hedgehog cages. You can use a
drill or soldering iron to place ventilation holes throughout the cage and if
your hedgehog is an escape artist you can drill holes (or solder) the lid to
allow for even more ventilation. A 112
quart Sterilite is tall enough to prevent escapes but
still big enough to fit a wheel, food, etc…
To hang a water bottle you will need to either solder holes for the
water bottle clips to go through or you will need to purchase one that hangs
over the edge. We personally use Sterilites for our hedgehogs, they are light, easy to
clean, cheap to replace, and provide the right amount of space. Should you not be able to find a 112 quart
bin a 96 quart can be substituted providing your hedgehog gets enough out of cage
time as a wheel won’t fit in them. You can even get creative and hook two bins
together to make a “hedgie condo”.
For more cage ideas, to learn to make Sterilite
condos, and for wheel instructions please see: Hedgies.Com
These are just the
cages we have had experience with. I know there are several others people
have used or do use, so please feel free to try others and let me know if you
find one that works better than any of these!!
Food and water dishes,
a sleeping box or bag, the proper bedding, toys, a wheel, and other accessories
are also necessary for hedgehogs. More
information on these things can be found in this section: Hedgehog Basics
Feed Requirements
Hedgehogs have very specific food requirements. First of all they should be given a staple
food. A staple food can be a Hedgehog
food such as 8 in 1, Mazuri Insectivore Fare, or Brisky’s
Hedgehog Diet. VitaKraft
Hedgehog food is NOT adequate for hedgehogs and hedgehogs have actually starved
on this diet so please NEVER use it.
Mazuri and 8 in 1 are my favorites and my hedgehogs will eat either of
those, of the two Mazuri is a bit cheaper.
Brisky’s is an adequate diet but my hedgehogs
do not care for it and won’t eat it.
Hedgehogs can be very picky so whatever you choose to feed you must make
certain your hedgehog can and will eat it.
A high quality cat food such as Chicken Soup for the Cat Lover’s Soul,
Wellness, Felidae, or a high quality dog food
(generally these need to be broken up in to smaller pieces for hedgehogs to eat
or they can choke on them) such as Chicken Soup for the Dog Lover’s Soul, Canidae, Royal Canin, or Wellness
is the perfect staple diet. The main
thing to keep in mind is that whatever you feed should not have more than 10%
fat and should have at least 15% fiber (if you can’t find a food with enough
fiber you can sprinkle Grape Nuts Cereal over the top of their food to give
them that added fiber boost) generally this will require you to purchase the
light version of the foods listed above.
Anything higher than that can lead to Fatty Liver Disease which is often
fatal in hedgehogs and comes on very quickly.
All of the carnivorous or omnivorous animals in our home are fed Chicken
Soup brand foods from the cats to the dogs to the hedgehogs and occasionally
the gliders. This food and the foods
listed above are natural foods consisting of the highest quality meats and
vegetables and have no artificial fillers or preservatives. Studies have linked artificial fillers and
preservatives in pet foods to cancers, ear infections, respiratory infections,
joint problems, and a myriad of other health and wellness problems. For that reason we feed nothing that contains
by-products, fillers, or preservatives, we wouldn’t eat it and we don’t expect
our animal companions to either. On top
of that a low quality cat food will cause your hedgehog to have very stinky
poop where a high quality cat food will produce firmer, and not so smelly poop
(always a plus with hedgies) J.
On top of their staple food hedgehogs should be offered a variety
of insects. Mealworms, Silkworms, Wax
worms, and Crickets are wonderful and can be purchased online or in most pet
stores. Mealworms and Wax worms are
fairly high in fat so those should be fed in moderation. Crickets are lower in fat and higher in
calcium so they’re a good choice especially if they are gut loaded (fed a
special food specifically for insects that causes them to absorb extra
vitamins, minerals, and calcium).
Silkworms are a favorite of my hedgehogs and I prefer them to the rest
of the insects. They are higher in
calcium and lower in fat than even crickets, they have a soft exoskeleton so
they are easy to digest, and they don’t escape.
All of my hedgehogs will eat silkworms even if they generally turn their
noses up at other insects. J
You can order silkworms from Cheri at: Silky’s to Go and she can ship them around the
country. NEVER feed Super worms to your
hedgehog, these are a carnivorous worm and they can bite your hedgehog and turn
your hedgehog off of insects forever.
You should also not feed wild caught insects that could contain
parasites or pesticides. Purchasing
insects at the pet shop or from an insect farm is the only way to ensure you’re
purchasing insects who are pesticide free.
Earth worms are especially dangerous as they can carry lung worm which
is then transmitted to your hedgehog and can be fatal so please never feed wild
caught insects.
Because we aren’t wholly certain what the diet of a wild hedgehog
is we do our best to offer variety and meet their nutritional needs. Some hedgehogs do very well and live a long
happy life on a staple food and insects alone.
This is just fine. We however,
prefer to offer a variety of foods and hopefully come as close as we can to
their natural diet. Our hedgehogs’ diet
is listed below and we hope it will help you in deciding what to feed your
hedgehogs:
All of our hedgehogs
have a bowl of Chicken Soup for the Cat Lover’s Soul Light Formula available to
them
24/7. This food is dumped, the bowl cleaned, and
the bowl re-filled each evening.
Aside from the
Chicken Soup Light our hedgehogs are also offered the following:
1 tablespoon (sometimes a bit more) of one of the following
OR 10-12 Insects (one of the above mentioned variety):
Chicken, Salmon, Boiled Egg, Game Meats (be certain this is
professionally processed game meat and it’s a great choice because it’s very
lean), Gerber Baby Food (2nd Stage Meat in Gravy ONLY, the higher
stages have onion powder, salt, and other additives, the ingredients should be
meat, water, and corn starch), and on rare occasions roast beef (we feed this
perhaps once every 2 weeks). Be sure any
proteins are not cooked in oil or butter and are NOT seasoned with anything. Boiling, Mircrowaving,
and even broiling are all fine ways to cook these proteins. You’ll also want to cook the meats until very
tender and cut them in to very small pieces to prevent choking. Always make certain to cook meat fully to
prevent the risk of parasitic and bacterial infections.
1 tablespoon of one of the following fruits or vegetables
(we rotate so Monday fruits and Tuesday veggies, etc…):
Green
Peppers (diced), Peas, Corn, Cooked Carrots (diced), Squash (diced off the
rind), Cucumber (diced), Sweet Potato,
or Zucchinis (diced off the rind).
Banana,
Melon, Blueberries, Strawberries, Raspberries, Mango, or Pineapple
Being in
Three times a week I offer a treat in the form of Low Fat
Plain Organic Yogurt, Gerber fruit baby foods (make sure there’s no added
sugar), or Low Fat Cottage Cheese to all of my hedgehogs. At least once a week we feed yogurt or baby
food from a children’s medicine dropper.
As hedgehogs age it will most likely become necessary to syringe feed
them at some point whether it’s medicine or food, by feeding treats from the
dropper on a regular basis we find it’s much easier on our hedgehogs when they
must take medication or a supplement or if they need supplemental feedings,
this way they’re not afraid of the dropper and they know it won’t hurt
them. This has worked wonderfully for us
in the past and we start newly weaned babies on this process as well, it’s
never too young to learn to be comfortable with the dropper.
We only offer 1 new food a week, hedgehogs can have severe
food allergies so by offering only 1 new food a week it makes it possible to
discover which food could be causing the allergy without having to wait for the
next reaction. Hedgehogs can be very
picky. Just because your hedgehog
doesn’t like something the first time it’s offered doesn’t mean he won’t like
it the next time around. If he turns his
nose up at something new, wait a few weeks and try again. If after a couple tries he still doesn’t like
it then you will just have to accept it and move on to something new. We have found variety to be the key. When we find something they truly like (with
the exception of insects and yogurt) we don’t over feed it, we offer it on a
regular schedule with every other type of food, that way they don’t get bored
with their favorites.
On top of this make certain your hedgehogs always have a
supply of fresh water available to them.
Health Care & Common Hedgehog Illnesses
*Please note before reading this section
we are NOT veterinarians. The information
contained in this section is simply a guideline based on our experiences and
the experiences others have shared with us.
If you are in doubt see your vet!!!
Cuddly Critters Exotics accepts no responsibility should anything happen
to your pet due to lack of immediate veterinary care when necessary*
Unfortunately there are a myriad of health problems hedgehogs may
face. Some will come with age and some
can strike at any time. Below you will
find a list of the most common problems.
Unfortunately we find new things every day so I will do my best to make
certain this is updated when I hear of something new and unusual. Most hedgehog health concerns require fast
action and immediate veterinary attention.
Feeding the proper diet, maintaining proper temperatures, a clean
environment, and regular veterinary exams will help to keep your hedgehog
healthy and happy.
Mites: Mites are perhaps the most common
of all hedgehog problems. Some wood
shavings harbor mites. There are some
vets who believe hedgehogs always have a few dormant mites. Whatever the case may be at some point you
may have to deal with mites in your hedgehog.
Mites can actually be life threatening to hedgehogs by causing a
secondary anemia. Mites must be dealt
with immediately by a veterinarian and you should never ignore them or try to
treat them at home unless you are certain you can kill every mite and eliminate
every egg safely and you’ve been instructed how to do so by a
veterinarian. Some signs of mites are:
tattered ears, lethargy, weight loss, dry flaky skin, loss of quills (hedgehogs
shed quills all of the time, 2-3 a day are not a concern, more than that over a
period of a few days is cause for concern), itching, and redness. An Aveeno Oatmeal
Dry Skin: Dry skin is a common problem
among hedgehogs. Signs of dry skin are:
tattered ears, itching, flaking skin, and loss of quills (ONLY assume it’s dry
skin if mites have been ruled out).
Bathing your hedgehog in Aveeno Moisturizing
FLD or Fatty Liver Disease: Fatty Liver
disease can be a progressive issue caused by a diet too high in fat or it can
be an immediate issue in hedgehogs who go off their feed for more than 3
days. Generally by the time they start
to exhibit symptoms this disease is highly progressed and it can be fatal. Symptoms include: jaundice (seen most clearly
in the belly area), lethargy, sudden severe weight gain or loss, and refusal to
eat. FLD can be treated if caught early
enough but many times it can’t be cured.
There is no home remedy, if you suspect your hedgehog has FLD a vet
visit is immediately in order.